Article by Robbie Leys
Famous across Europe and beyond, pubs and bars in Edinburgh attract custom from all over. If you are from Edinburgh and looking to hit the town or simply fancy a quiet pint, your options are endless.
Perhaps you’re planning a stag party or hen party…Edinburgh is one of the UK’s most popular destinations for hedonistic weekend breaks!
For a city of only 477,000 people, we have an exceptionally high number of pubs, bars, clubs and music venues.
How do they all survive? Well…one reason is, the people of Edinburgh have a real appetite for fun and love to let their hair down!
Another reason is the hoards of party-animals from elsewhere who are drawn to Edinburgh to see if its reputation lives up to its billing!
With such a huge variety to choose from, it can be difficult to decide where to go. That’s where this page comes in. I will split this page into six sections to keep things clear and to-the-point – trendy bars, traditional pubs, themed bars, student bars and sports bars.
Of course, I cannot cover absolutely every noteworthy pub and bar in the city of Edinburgh. Not even a 70 year old local man could manage that! However, I have selected a decent number of excellent pubs and bars in Edinburgh that will get you started and give you a flavour of what’s available in this great city.
Traditional Pubs
Out of sheer respect for the history and culture of my home town, I will begin with our quite spiffing traditional pubs.
As a general rule of thumb, you will find traditional pubs dotted all over town, however, there is an over-proportionate number in the Grassmarket, on the Royal Mile and on Rose Street directly behind Princes Street.
What was once a place of execution, the Grassmarket is now a haven for intimate, cosy pubs each with an amusing name and character. Hopping from pub to pub is a simple task as the Castle side of the Grassmarket is practically an uninterrupted terraced building of different traditional pubs. Don’t like one? Go next door!
A two-minute saunter from the Grassmarket towards the Cowgate and up Candlemaker Row will take you to the Greyfriars Bar.
Located opposite Greyfriars Bobby, this pub is the best place in town to learn about the story of Bobby, Edinburgh’s most loyal dog and sample some traditional ale while munching on cracking sandwiches. It is certainly one of the most famous pubs and bars in Edinburgh.
From there, walk up George IV Bridge towards the Royal Mile where you will find Deacon Brodie’s Tavern on the corner. Named after the man who inspired Robert Louis Stevenson to write the novel ‘Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde’, Deacon Brodie’s Tavern is about as traditional as it gets and is popular with tourists and locals alike. Don’t forget to read the intriguing story of Deacon Brodie on the outside wall!
If you’re still standing, take a stroll down the Royal Mile where there are plenty of traditional pubs and cafes to choose from. That might be enough for one day, but if you’re well-trained or in training, head on over to Rose Street behind Princes Street.
Rose Street is somewhat legendary as it has the highest concentration of pubs and bars in Edinburgh with cosy little emporiums on both sides of the street. Rumour has it that you will be given the freedom of the city if you can finish one drink in every pub on Rose Street within 24 hours.
At the East End of Princes Street behind Burger King (don’t scroll down just yet) is the Cafe Royal, a beautifully ornate bar with the serving area in the middle, impressive paintings on the walls and brass fittings everywhere. This would be a great choice for an afternoon pint or bite to eat with your partner or a couple of friends.
Trendy Bars
Although George Street and the West End are renowned for their up-market hangouts and places in which to be seen, trendy bars are dotted all over Edinburgh.
Hudson’s at the West End next to the House of Fraser department store has only been open a few years and is a stylishly decorated bar with hotel rooms upstairs. They usually keep the lights down low which can create a slightly sultry mood. This could be a good date-bar. If your date isn’t holding your attention, there are numerous TVs on the walls showing the latest sport!
A walk across Charlotte Square will take you to the start of George Street, Edinburgh’s hub for trendsetters. Bars such as Browns, Candy Bar, All Bar One and Le Monde are particularly popular. Many of George Street’s bars set tables and chairs outside on the wide pavements when the weather is nice.
Le Monde has three distinctive areas each incorporating the styles prevalent in Paris, Vienna and Milan nightspots.
Two of my favourite bars in Edinburgh, Amicus Apple and Oloroso are located on Frederick Street and Castle Street respectively which are perpendicular to George Street.
However, their locations and approach couldn’t be more different. Amicus Apple is set in the basement of its building and Oloroso is a rooftop bar. With stunning views of Edinburgh Castle, Oloroso is the kind of bar you go to with your partner for a romantic drink to enjoy the open air and breathtaking views.
Amicus Apple, while fairly relaxing during the day, is a real party location at night with regular themed parties and lots of crazy fun. A quiet drink at their tables outside on a summer’s day comes highly recommended!
If you are willing to venture a little further out of the way, I can highly recommend Medina on Lothian Street around the corner from the Museum of Scotland.
I can only describe Medina as a kind of North African hippy-den with style. They don’t do tables and they don’t do chairs. Instead they have loungers, beds and tiny stools with holes to hold your drinks. Expect deep reds, oranges and browns in the furnishings, walls and ceiling. I cannot think of a better place in Edinburgh for a cosy drink with your partner.
Themed Bars
My favourite type of bar is a themed bar and luckily we have quite a few excellent themed pubs and bars in Edinburgh. Let’s start on George IV Bridge where they have two bars with very different themes.
Firstly, Bar Kohl is a vodka specialist stocking well over 100 different vodkas from around the vodka-producing world and their cocktail list is one of the longest in the city.
The thing I love about this place is the different types of vodka they have written on a chalkboard on the wall. The locals love to choose a random number without looking at the board and seeing what they end up with. Moderation is the word of the day…
Across the street you will find Frankensteins, the most-famous of all themed pubs and bars in Edinburgh.
All three floors of this converted church is based on the classic Mary Shelley novel so expect near darkness, plenty of electric balls and a food and drinks menu to match the mood. Oh and beware of the rather spooky surprise around midnight…I’ll say no more.
Sticking with this theme of darkness, the Jekyll and Hyde pub is well worth a visit. Probably the darkest pub in Edinburgh, your eyes might need time to adjust when you walk in. Based on the Robert Louis Stevenson novel, this pub is decorated in a creatively sinister way representative of Mr Hyde’s character. Be sure to find the toilet as soon as you arrive as its discreet location could leave you embarrassed!
On a more Celtic note, Edinburgh’s outstanding Scottish bar at the West End next to the Caledonian Hotel, Ghillie Dhu, focuses on highland music, dance and culture.
Ghillie Dhu is definitely the most impressive new bar in town. Downstairs you will find a large bar area with a wide selection of Scottish ales and whiskies and liqueurs served by men in kilts. Behind the bar, you and your friends can occupy a private booth with small saloon-style swing doors.
A wander up the spiral staircase in the entrance hall will take you into the ceilidh hall where live folk bands lead Scottish country dancing. If you haven’t the foggiest idea what to do, the singer will describe the moves to you and then you will be surprised by how quickly you pick it up as the mood and your dancing partners swing you along!
The most striking and pleasing aspect of this bar is the broad range of age groups in attendance. It’s very refreshing to see the young, younger and youngest socialise and dance together. Of all the pubs and bars in Edinburgh, this is the place to go to sample Scottish culture. While Ghillie Dhu has a loyal following, tourists will find it the insight into the culture, language and dance of Scotland fascinating and thrilling.
Student Bars
With three universities in town, Edinburgh University, Heriot-Watt University and Napier University and a number of colleges there is a significant student population in the city. Student Unions aside, there are dozens of entertaining student bars and pubs in Edinburgh. Let’s take a look at three of the best.
My student days are long gone, yet I still enjoy a good night in The Tron. Situated just off the Royal Mile at Hunter Square, The Tron has three floors and a mezzanine-of-sorts. The video jukebox rules at The Tron with the bar giving you full control of the background music.
The Tron also has a ‘yellow card’ system whereby discounts can be had on a number of popular drinks. With its location close to the bars and clubs of the Cowgate, The Tron is often used as a launchpad for a night-out.
A stone’s-throw from The Tron down the side street next to the Bank Hotel on the Royal Mile is The Globe, another in-demand student hangout. As it is practically underground, the bar is characterised by arched stone ceilings.
The bar is also characterised by cheap drinks. This makes it very popular among students and travellers creating a very convivial atmosphere. The Globe has big TV screens at the end of small caverns which is excellent for watching live sports with a group of friends.
The Cowgate in the Old Town is very popular among students and young people generally with one of the highest concentrations of bars and pubs in Edinburgh. The Three Sisters bar is the biggest and most popular bar in the Cowgate and has a large courtyard at the front which is often used for barbecues in the summer.
Inside, the bar has stone walls and low arched ceilings creating a cavern-like effect. The serving area runs the entire length of the left wall and there is a small dance floor hidden at the very back if you want to strut your stuff. The numerous confessional-like booths along the right wall can be used for more private conversations.
Sports Bars
Although the vast majority of pubs and bars in Edinburgh have televisions and big screens showing live sports (we can’t do without our football in this country!) there are a number of bars which specialise in live sports coverage.
The best sports bar in town is the aptly-named Sportsters. You will find this bar opposite the back entrance to Waverley Train Station and Edinburgh Dungeons on Market Street.
Sportsters is the proud owner of over 30 television screens ranging in size from large to ?ber-large, a large standing area to encourage a stadium-like atmosphere for big games and a restaurant upstairs serving good quality pub-grub. If the game goes really well, there is access to City nightclub from inside Sportsters!
Aussies themselves might cringe at the idea of a chain of Aussie bars called Walkabout, but if you’re into Rugby, Cricket, Aussie Rules and ‘Soccer’ then you can’t go far wrong at Walkabout.
Set in the Omnicentre at the top of Leith Walk next to the Playhouse, Walkabout also hosts gigs now and again making use of the relatively large bar area and adding to the very laid-back atmosphere of the place. There is a cash machine next door as well which often proves very handy…
Those who know me well, will understand that I have to write something about the Standing Order on George Street . Whether you love it or you hate it, everyone agrees that it is a bar of the people and that it’s cheap as chips for a George Street bar.
What I love most about The Standing Order is the fact it’s a converted bank (hence the name) with very high ceilings and many cosy rooms branching off the main bar. You will meet people of all ages in this bar and it is almost always very busy which guarantees an informal, sociable atmosphere.
The Standing Order has wide-screen televisions on the wall opposite the bar and when the Scottish National Football Team loses, I mean, plays, the projection screen is rolled down, the bar is packed and the atmosphere is absolutely electric!
The sound of hundreds of people chatting, laughing and generally having a good time without the din of background music is what The Standing Order is all about. Plus – there are not many places in Edinburgh where you can get a pint for £2!!
About the Author
Robbie Leys is a writer for edinburgh-insider.com, an Edinburgh tourist information site providing tips, recommendations and hidden gems from the locals.